Phil's Jeep Page

Phil's
CJ-5 Page

Page last updated on December 7, 2005

This page is for fellow "J" (Jeep) CJ-5 owners or anyone with an interest in CJ 5's. You can scroll down for dicounted parts and other Jeep items.

First a bit on Jeeps in general. One of the most debated questions regarding Jeeps is just how the Jeep name came into existance. Most including myself believe it came from the acronym G.P., which Ford used to designate G= "Government" and P = wheelbase designation. All vehicles Ford built for the government started with a 'G' for Government. Following was a letter which stood for the wheelbase. GA, GB, GC, GD, GE, etc, getting longer each time. When they got to 80 inches (jeep size) they were at 'P'. The U.S. Army’s designation for its quarter-ton reconnaissance vehicle. Some say the origin of the Jeep name can be traced to a 1930s Popeye comic strip character, Eugene the Jeep, an impish-looking character from another dimension that had the power to go anywhere and tackle any situation just like a Jeep vehicle. Willys obtained the first United States Trademark Registration for the Jeep name in 1950, ownership of the Jeep trademark, which is now registered internationally, has passed from Willys-Overland to Kaiser to American Motors Corporation, and most recently, to Chrysler Corporation. Interesting but enough about Jeeps in general, let's talk CJ-5's.

In 1955, Kaiser Jeep introduced the CJ-5, a civilian version of the M38A1. The CJ-5 had the longest production run of any Jeep model. They were produced from 1955 to 1983. The CJ 5 body design remained almost unchanged for 29 years. By the time my 1978 CJ 5 was manufactured total Jeep vehicle production was up to 600 vehicles a day.

The "J" in The Ghost town of Geneva Oregon

Many including myself consider the 1978 and 1979 CJ 5 or CJ 7 Jeeps the best CJ's that Jeep ever made. My 1978 CJ 5 has the following equipment, and is why it's a reliable and effective off road vehicle.

Engine = The bullet proof AMC 258 in-line 6 was introduced in 1972 in CJs. It was used through 1990 in the Wrangler. It is basically a stroked 232 engine. The 258 came with a cast iron block and cylinder head, hydraulic lifters, non-adjustable rockers, and most important the 7 main bearings which made it tough and long lasting. The great thing about this engine is it reliable, inexpensive, has ample horse power and low end toque. The 258 came with a Carter carburetor. For a carbureted engine, the 258 with the Carter BBD performs well off road and doesn't spinout half as often as some of my friends CJ's with 350 V-8's. It's been modified very slightly with a Ford 300 CID IL6 distributor to replace the stock 258's, the carb was rejetted for a little more top end. A set of in frame headers lets it breath and the flowmasters give it that throaty sound.

Transmission = The T-18A (Ford truck Version) used from 1977-1979 is the best transmission ever put in a CJ by the factory because of the granny low first gear(6:32:1.) For the Ford T18, the case and top cover (hence Toploader) are both cast iron, with the top cover being retained by six bolts The T-18 was optional on CJs from 1971-1979 and were manufactured by Borg Warner . Earlier T-18s have the strength, but a wimpy 4.03:1 first.

Transfer Case = The Dana 20 was used in CJs from 1972 until 1979. It is not as tough as the Dana 300, but it is still reliable. The Dana 20 is a heavy duty gear driven transfer case that uses a 26 tooth input gear. The case and tail housing are cast iron and strong. The low range (2.03 and high is 1.00) of this transfer case makes it less desireable than the 300 but when matched to the T-18A transmission they will go about anywhere.

Front Axle = From 1972 to 1983 Dana 30 axles were used. From '72-'78 the factory had Warn Premium hubs as an option which mine has. Between '76-'78 the disk brakes used a large 10-1/2"x1-1/8" rotor. This heavy duty setup uses a 6 bolt caliper mounting bracket that goes between the knuckle and the spindle. Mine has 1997 Wrangler leaf springs to soften the ride and old man Emu nitro gas shocks.

Frame is a full box frame (complete four sided very strong) vs the earlier L metal frames that had the tendecy to bend when bounced hard off road.

Rear Axle= AMC20 AKA "Corporate 20", Bad mouthed by many and considered a weak link because the AMC 20 housing tends to flex which can cause breakage. This was an easy fix by adding gussets. The reason the AMC 20 flexes more than the Dana 44 is the shorter differential housing and smaller axle tubes. But hold up the gears and pinion to a Dana 44 and it is hands down the "Corporate 20" has heavier duty inards. It's real main flaw is the CJ version uses those notorious two piece axles used in the CJ applications of the AMC 20. These were made up of a hub and a shaft. The hub end tends to break off under load which has created the market for one piece AMC 20 axle shafts. These shafts are can be expensive ($350+ USD) and in some cases a special bearing must be used. I'm switching to a one piece axles from "Crown Automotive" (Less than $175.00 on EBay) and will add timken bearings. A rear axle truss added strength. I will match this set up to a Dana 44 any day. From 1976-1978 a larger 11x2" drum brakes was used on the AMC 20. After 1978, a 10x1.75" drum was used.

Wheels/Tires = Currently I'm running on 33 x 12.5 x 15 Toyo T/A radials on aluminum wheels.

Misc. = Kenwood AM-FM CD player with Pioneer 4 way speakers mounted in back over wheelwells. Sun Tach(Factory tach still in dash working). Uniden CB tweaked to 12 watts w/ 8 ft. whip. Two five gallon Bliss military/red metal gas cans mounted on spare tire swing out with a hi-lift jack. Every interior and exterior body bolt and screw has been replaced with stainless and all frames bolts upgraded to "Grade 8". This is a plain jane Jeep that is dependable and works. My kids have learned to work a clutch and drive a stick with it, everyone in the family enjoys wheeling in it. Happy Jeeping!

Projects in the Works.

I just finished installing a Rough Country 4" Spring Lift Kit, New Heckelthorn 8000 Nitro Shocks and a Polyuethene 1" body lift! I went with the body lift as the body mounts were shot and this gave me an extra 3/4 " of lift and cured the problem of the worn rubber body mounts. I'm considering adding a "Lockrite" locker to the rear this Spring as well. I plan to hit it with some fresh smoke blue paint with some radiance in the clear.

GG and our "J" starting down Cougar Canyon